Exploring the Piedmont palate

One of my favourite pastimes is reading heated online debates about the file extension ‘.gif’. While one half claims the pronunciation of the ‘g’ as a voiced palato-alveolar affricate as heard in ‘giraffe’, others insist it be a voiced velar plosive as in ‘gibbon’. Today, I’m hugely grateful that such uncertainty is inherent in the written word as we discuss Piedmont(e), and you’ll just have to trust that I know how to say it with 100% certainty.

Piedmont is a beautiful sub-alpine region of Italy, famous particularly for autumnal treats such as truffles, luscious pasta dense with egg yolks, and beautiful wine. Travelling there in the mosquito-y depths of summer was not necessarily my brightest idea – but even through the veil of constant itchiness and dehydrating wine-tastings, the beauty of the landscape and produce shone through.

Barolo Chinato infused with local herbs and some spices in the cellar of Barolo Fratelli.

Piedmont’s wine region is broad, straddling the towns of Asti and Alba, with steep hills and valleys providing a myriad different microclimates. Barolo and Barbaresco are Piedmont’s most famous ‘prestige’ wines, with both made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. The name Nebbiolo potentially derives from the local dialect for ‘fog’. It is thought to reference either the dense cloud that covers the vineyards in autumn or the dusty-white coating of the grapes themselves.

Wine made with Nebbiolo pours light ruby-red, but this almost pinot-like colour hides an intensity of tannins and acid that can be nigh-on unapproachable when young. Barolo is a sub-category of Nebbiolo which comes from a relatively small sub-region with lime-rich clay-based soil, and mandates 36 months of ageing of which 18 must be on wood. With a classic (and quite romantic) profile of ‘tar and roses’, further age can reveal characters of red fruit, herbs, tobacco, and even truffles. Indeed, Barolo’s acidity and bracing tannins lead to incredible ageing potential, with many comfortably able to sit aside for decades if you have the patience.

Barbaresco is also 100% Nebbiolo, but grown in ‘softer’ soil and aged only two years. These wines may offer more immediate pleasure, with generally softer tannins and lower acid. Beyond Nebbiolo, Piedmont grows some beautiful Barbera which offers fragrant, full-bodied reds that are high in acid but low in tannins. For something even more fruit-forward, look out for Dolcetto, which is perfect for drinking from a carafe, paired with pizza and pasta.

The region also has an amazing collection of infused wines and vermouths. A style of infused Nebbiolo called Chinato (not to be confused with Chinotto) would be wonderful on a cool winter’s night – but proved less appealing while sweating profusely in the Italian sunshine. Cocci, a 130-year-old Piedmont brand, makes one of my favourite sweet vermouths for a Negroni. And no discussion of Piedmont would be complete without referencing Asti Spumante, the sparkling Moscato with a dangerously crowd-pleasing sweetness. Made at 10 times the quantity of Nebbiolo, it is a true friend to university students everywhere.

So, regardless of pronunciation, Piedmont is a gorgeous place to explore in-person and through wine. Oh, and in case you’re wondering, I pronounce it ‘gif’.